Implementing the Home Network

Now that you've designed your home network, it's time to install and commission it:

1. Select and buy the parts
• The Internet Access switch-router:
As stated in the design, this needs to support:
• A cable modem
• Internet routing
• 6 Ethernet switch ports
• An IEEE802.11g Wi-Fi infrastructure access point
• A (packet filter) firewall
• DNS, DHCP and NAT services
One issue is that there are not many domestic-class switch/routers that have more than four Ethernet ports. If you can't get one, buy a separate four-or-more-port switch and connect it to your switch-router. You will then have at least 6 available Ethernet ports (remember, one of the Ethernet ports on each device will be used to connect them together). Most switches and switch/routers will work out automatically which port is being used to link them together. Some will require you to tell them and others assign a particular port. Sometimes, that particular port has a switch you'll need to set to 'link'
• A suitable lead and adapter to connect your cable terminal to the Internet switch/router
• One RJ45 panel socket, faceplate and backing box for each end of the cables. It may be preferred to fit a 'jack strip' near the router or to terminate the router ends of the network cables with flying plugs. A jack strip is the neatest (but dearest) solution. You will need a 'punch-down' tool to secure the wires to the sockets, and a crimping tool if you want to fit plugs to the cables
• A reel of a suitable Cat-5 cable
• One short Cat 5 patch lead for each link from the switch(es) to the jack strip/sockets. Normally, a 30cm lead will be long enough.
• One Cat-5 patch lead to connect each of the room Ethernet points to the device assigned to it. Patch leads up to 5m are readily available. Longer ones are also available but are usually disproportionately expensive.
• I recommend a surge-protected distribution board to protect your router etc from mains surges.
Note: if you decide to make your own patch leads, then the Cat 5 cable used to run between sockets is much stiffer than the patch cable. It is single strand rather than multi-strand and so will be much more likely to be damaged by repeated flexing. Hence you are better to buy proper patch cables than try to make your own...
2. Install and configure the network
• Run Cat 5 UTP cable from the router location to each of the hard-wired network points.
• Fit the backing boxes, faceplates and network sockets.  Fit the router-end jack strip, sockets or loose plugs.  Make sure to label the sockets/leads so you know which one goes where.
• Configure your switch/router
• Assemble the Internet access switch-router and position it close to your desktop PC.
• Connect a patch lead directly from your PC's Ethernet socket to one of the switch-router ports. Again, it usually doesn't matter which one, but sometimes it does: read the manual.
• Power up the PC and the switch-router.
  
• Start up a Web Browser on the PC: You may have to manually set the PC's IP address to whatever the switch-router manual recommends.
• Type the switch-router's IP address into the browser address window: again, follow the switch-router manual
• Once you've established connection with the switch-router's built-in web server, follow the instructions in the manual to:
• Set the router to use your chosen IP address subnet
• Set the static IP address of the switch-router itself (if you're not using the default)
Note:You will probably have to reboot the switch-router at this point if you've changed its subnet range or IP address. If so, you may also need to change your PC's IP address to one in your chosen range and set the PC's 'default gateway' to be the IP address of the switch-router to allow it to connect
• Set up the selected DHCP address range and enable the DHCP server.
• Enter the settings your cable ISP has provided to configure the cable interface. You should not yet connect the cable interface
• Configure the firewall. Normally, by default, the firewall is enabled and set so that no connections will be accepted from the Internet via the cable modem, but all outgoing connections will be permitted. If not, set these options.
• Enable Network Address Translation (NAT)
• Set the Wi-Fi base station parameters:
• Set a suitable network name - choose one that doesn't reveal too much while being something you can recognize
• Select WPA-PSK (Pre-shared key), WPA2-PSK or WPA-PSK+WPA2-PSK ('mixed mode') as the security option, depending on what your peripherals support
• Select mode g (or g+b if you need it)
• Select a channel. Which channel you use will depend on what country you are in and whether anyone else nearby is using the default channel (which may cause interference). Stick with the default for the moment but you can change it later if you have trouble connecting to your Wi-Fi service. Most laptop PCs will list all the Wi-Fi services they can detect, and should list the channel each uses. Select a free channel.
• Choose and set a suitable network key (The 'pre-shared key' mentioned above).  for WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK this should be between 8 and 63 alphanumeric characters (some symbols can also be included. The password should be one you can remember, and write it down and keep it in a safe place - not all switch-routers allow you to read it once you've set it up! You will need to enter this key into every device that needs to connect to your Wi-Fi service, so don't forget it!
• Enable the service and allow broadcast of the SSID (Wi-Fi service name)
Some switch-routers have additional services, such as parental control for Internet access, availability schedules, web site blocking, DMZ service, Dynamic DNS or VPN support, Management passwords etc. Set these up if you choose, but I suggest leaving them until after you've got the system working properly. The less you activate at this stage, the easier it is to troubleshoot faults and mis-configurations...
• You can now connect the cable modem to the termination unit and allow the router to automatically log in to the Internet service provider. Once this is complete, your PC should be able to access the Internet
• To check that everything's working, set your PC IP settings to their final value then reboot both PC and switch-router. If everything's set up properly, the PC will connect to the switch-router and will have access to the Internet.
• Move the switch-router to its final location. Connect the cable feed and connect Cat-5 patch leads between the switch-router (and additional switch) and the jack strip/network sockets (or plug the flying leads into the switch/router). Connect a patch lead from your PC to its room network socket. Your PC should connect to the switch-router and have access to the Internet.
• Set up the static IP addresses on each of your permanently-connected devices, connect patch leads and ensure that they connect to the switch-router. Most will have a status led near the network socket that will turn green, then flash irregularly as it detects network traffic.
• Set up your Wi-Fi connected devices to use your named Wi-Fi service. You will need to configure the device to obtain its IP address automatically from the network. You will need to enter the pre-shared key into each device to allow it to connect. Each device should show when it is connected - check out its manual.

You should now have a functioning network with Internet access.  There are several additional tasks you might need to do:

• Disable SSID broadcast on the switch-router: devices which have been set up to access your Wi-Fi service will still be able to connect, but others will not be able to see your service name. This makes it (slightly) harder for someone to break in to your Wi-Fi network.
• Put all your windows PCs into a Workgroup, so that they will be able to see one another's network shares (they will still need to enter a username and password to access them)
• Set up print queues to allow your PCs to print to networked devices
• Configure all the other functions your switch-router supports. CAUTION: do these one at a time, so that if there's a problem, you know what to undo!